The Professional Air
Soap Cutter™ cuts Cold Processed and Hot Processed
soap with ease.
This soap cutter is Not for cutting melt
and pour or glycerin soap.
A slight push re-locates your
block of soap under the loaf cutting frame or bath bomb for
the perfect cut or press. There is no guess work or
Within a few minutes you are ready
to cut your soap loaves into the final bars. Changing frames and
cutting tables is quick and easy and we supply the tool. Load up
your bar table with as many loaves as you can stack on it, then
just pull the lever.
Air Cutter Pro Molds are custom
sized for the most efficient use of your ingredients and the
least amount of waste in cutting. They work in conjunction with
your Air Soap Cutter™.
The bottom of your mold is your loaf cutting table.
Pour any size batch you
desire, up to your full batch weight. Use the free
software that comes with your cutter to calculate
the exact formula to use for the number of bars you
want to make. Your most efficient pour is a full
batch but, there are times when you do not need that
Two Cutting Frames are
available with the Air Soap Cutter™; a loaf cutting
and a bar cutting; both custom made and designed.
Maintenance? About every 20,000 bars, lightly grease
the guide rods.
High tensile strength
wire for lasting durability. Wire replacement is
easy with our adjustable tension bolts. Note: With
proper use, wires can last years.
Extra cutting frames are
available for Hotel size bars, multiple bar sizes
and private label customers. See below.
Cutting Frames have removable tension bolt bars. So
if you decide to permanently change you bar or loaf
size, it is easy to do. Rubber caps on tension
bolts, protect fingers from sharp wire ends. extra
cutting wire, frame wrench,
staying within a 85 lb to 95 lb (38.5 to 43 kilo) block range. This
range provides the most efficient weight to mobility ratio. It is easy
to cut and works within the parameters of our Custom Soap Molds.
Information we will need from you - Soap Cutting
Click To Enlarge
We will need your Wet Cut (Just Cut) bar size,
thickness, width and length (See image).
Don’t have this….no worries, we can help you find the
perfect size for your needs.
soap. We work with you to find the most efficient pour, mold size and
the most efficient use of your time. Remember, you will be working with
people who know soap and are fully aware of the intricacies of hand
crafted soap making. We know that it is still important to you to have
that hands on feel, yet be able to have the time to get out there and
sell and develop your products.
Need help developing your bar size, approximate cured weight and
size, batch size, most efficient pour? This all comes free when
you order our equipment.
We can help Design your Entire Soapmaking Operation from heating
the base oils to racking the finished bars. Ask us how fast you
can pour, cut and rack 1500 bars of soap.
Have some unique soap making problems? We can help.
These Pro Molds are Custom Made to your specifications and
are designed to work with the Willow Way Air Soap Cutter™.
Single celled - with grooved bottom
to match the loaf-cutting grid on
the Air Soap Cutter™.
Soap Mold capacity is dependent on
the choice of bar size. We try to
design around an average 95 lb (43.2
kg) pour weight. Pour weight and
block size is personalized to your
needs and bar size. As an example a
95 lb (43.2 kg) pour weight, will
yield about 380, 4 ounce (100 gram)
bars. Please note that this bar
weight is not cured weight.
Better saponification is achieved in
these large molds due to the even
sustained temperatures in completing
the conversion of oils to glycerin.
Lining and greasing recommended.
We can supply a superb liner paper made
especially for our molds and mold sizes. For very large production
capacities over 40,000 bars per month, we can make pre-cut sizes based
on your mold design.
Made to last
from tough, high density plastic.
They are easy to
disassemble and de-mold.
Made from 3/4” (1.9cm) HDPE
Dimensions are dependent on
Ideal range of pour weights are
85 to 95 lbs (38.5 to 43 kilos).
Tired of sliding your mold around? These dollies make moving your Air
Soap Cutter™ or
Pro Molds, much easier. Simplifies moving your mold into position, to
pour from your Pot Tipper, easy and safe. Works
perfectly with your Pro Soap Mold Cover.
4 swivel casters for smooth movement in
Fits any Manual Cutter™ Mold.
Air Cutter™, Pro Molds Dollies are
custom cut to fit up against the bottom of your mold.
Recommended to keep molds off the floor.
Colds floors can restrict even saponification.
How are you going to lift that heavy mold? No
problem. Our Easy Hoist System works in tandem with
the Model CutAir Air Soap Cutter™…. in fact it
attaches right to our Air Soap Cutter™.
Will lift up to
440 lbs (200Kg). Just a touch of a button to
operate. The average Air Soap Cutter™ Mold when
full is about 140 lbs (63.5Kg).
Built tough to
withstand years of use.
Easy to Use, Our
Easy Hoist System uses a set of Wire Rope
Lanyards to lift the mold. These are stainless
steel cables, with loops that loop securely at
the four lift points (top threaded rods), and
are then hooked to the hoist block for lifting.
The hoist itself
is mounted to a ball bearing, four wheel
trolley, set in a heavy duty track above the Air
Soap Cutter™. This allows you to easily move and
place the mold onto our rolling Air Soap Cutter™
The Easy Hoist
System is Easy to Assemble; about 30 to 45
minutes for one person. No special tools
construction. 2” X 2” (5cm X 5cm) steel tubing
and 2” X 2.5” (5cm X 6.4cm) Track.
Protected with a
tough, baked on powder coat, enamel finish.
440 lb (200Kg)
40 ft. (12.2m)
of 1/8” (.32cm) carbon steel cable. 5 1/2 ft
(1.7m) Remote control cable
110 volts, 60hz,
All hardware is
Can ship via
FedEx or UPS, two cartons, total weight approx.
80 lbs (36Kg)
Some systems may
require a minor attachment to a wall or counter
The Air Soap Cutter™ comes with two frames, a
soap bar frame and a soap loaf frame.
I currently have a
block grid cutter (a cheaper variety than the one you sell, made
of wood and recycled plastic) and the wires break fairly often
which is time consuming to replace, sometimes even ruining some
of the soap in the process. I'm not sure the reason, but I need
to know of the probability of this happening with your unit as
I don't know the gauge or type of the wire you
use. Ours is a special grade that as far as I know only one
company in the World makes. We have sold over a thousand cutters
over the course of 12 years and seldom need to send replacement
wire to anyone.
Sometimes it is not the wire but the wire tying method. We
designed our wire bolts to work with the particular wire we use
and to pull the wire, straight on. They are also designed to
allow tiny adjustments in the tension and to lock firmly in
When should I cut my
Cutting Your Soap:
1. It is very important when using a wire cutter
to cut the soap as soon as possible. Letting the soap cure and
harden too long will result in breaking or stretching the wires.
2. At first, start checking Manual Cutter™ Molds
after about 20 hours. They will usually be ready between 24 and
36 hours but this can vary greatly. Start checking Air Cutter™
Molds after about 36 hours. Again these are usually ready at
about two to three days. Main thing here is observe and take
notes on your first few pours. This will eliminate mistakes.
3. Smaller pours require less cure time. Many
factors affect curing time. These range from, but are not
restricted to; environmental surroundings, humidity, air
temperature, insulation method and your soap recipe.
4. You may test your soap by pushing on the top
center of the pour. If it is spongy, it is not ready. If it is
firm, yet still soft, it is ready.
5. You can also test with a thermometer. Check
in the center about mid-way down from the top. It should be
ready when the temperature is below 90 degrees (F). After a
while you will know by the look and feel of your pour.
I have a few
questions about your wires. I have a cutter with guitar tuners
and it keeps losing tension. I am not at all thrilled about
this. I have to constantly, re-adjust the wire tension. Another
problem is trying to turn the knobs, it is very hard to do when
putting a lot of tension on the wire. What is your method? Is
each wire, individually controlled with your cutters, and how
are they tightened?
Right now, I think I use an 18 gauge wire and
some of my harder bars are very hard to cut. After one or two
cuts, I have to redo the tension on the wire.
The problem with
using a heavy wire and guitar tuners is that the tuner cannot
handle the heavy wire. The end result is that it slips and loses
tension. We machine our tension bolts to hold the wire so it
does not slip. Our system pulls straight through. The wires do
not wrap around the bolt. We make tens of thousands of these
bolts every year and have found no better method. With that
said, we are always looking for ways to improve.
Once it is tensioned
a couple times, they should not need to be adjusted again. There
should be little stretch left. Our wire is made to our
specification, and is about half again the tensile strength of
standard piano wire, in comparable gauges. We have customers who
have gone several years before re-tensioning their wires. We try
to get most of the stretch out of the wire before it leaves
As to individually tied wires, we loop some
wires but they have tension bolts on each end. Each bolt
essentially has one wire. If you want individual wires, we can
do this for a small charge but it makes no difference in the
performance of our system.
Do you make an
adjustable cutter for different bar thicknesses?
There would be no adjustable cutter worth its
salt. If there were, we would have invented it a long time ago.
You would end up having the exact same problem you are having
now - constant problems tensioning wires. The wires can only
take so much loosening and tensioning. To “Adjust” and move
wires around for different bar thicknesses, that is what you
would have to do….Loosen, Tension …. Loosen and tension - thus
destroying the wire.
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